Kev hloov ntawm UV absorber technology rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce

Cov ultraviolet spectrum hauv tshav ntuj yog nyob rau hauv qhov ntau ntawm 100 mus rau 400 nm, thiab muab faib ua peb pawg, 100 mus rau 290 nm Short-wave ultraviolet (UVC), 290 mus rau 320 nm, ultraviolet (UVB) thiab 320 mus 400 nm ntev -wave ultraviolet (UVA).

Daim duab 1: Lub wavelength thiab lub npe ntawm tshav ntuj

Thaum UVC kis tau los ntawm cov cua, nws yog qhov ua rau absorbed los ntawm ozone txheej thiab tsis tuaj yeem ncav cuag lub ntiaj teb.

UVB yog kwv yees li ntawm 290-320 nm ntev, feem ntau uas yog absorbed los ntawm cov epidermis, thiab ib qho me me ncav lub txheej txheem ntawm lub dermis, uas yog lub ntsiab band ntawm daim tawv nqaij puas. Nws tuaj yeem ncaj qha rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij, ua rau lub cev ntog tam sim thiab mob hnyav, xws li erythema, tshav kub, thiab lwm yam., Thaum uas ceev tau lub zes qe ntawm melanin. Txawm hais tias UVB nkag mus tsis zoo li UVA, nws yog ntau heev rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab nws yog cov kabmob ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Yog li, UVB tseem hu ua UV Hlawv.

Ib qho me me ntawm UVA yog absorbed los ntawm cov epidermis thiab feem ntau ntawm nws muaj peev xwm nkag mus rau hauv lub dermis thiab mus txog nruab nrab ntawm lub dermis. UVA muaj ib lub qhov ntev ntawm 320-400 nm thiab nquag plias nyob rau hauv cov huab cua txhua xyoo puag ncig. Nws nce mus txog ntawm lub ntiaj teb thaum tav su thaum lub caij ntuj sov thiab yog 100 zaus tshaj UVB. Nws yog permeable heev thiab tuaj yeem tua cov kab mob duav lossis txawm tias cov ntaub so ntswg los ntawm phab ntsa los sis iav, ua rau cov tawv nqaij fade ntawm cov tawv nqaij ua kom tawg thiab poob nws qhov ywj pheej, ua rau tsis muaj kev puas tsuaj rau ntawm cov tawv nqaij sib sib zog nqus, thiab activating prolinease. Hloov melanin ntau lawm, piv txwv li yees duab thiab pigmentation tam sim ntawd, nws thiaj li ua rau ntxov ntxov ntawm daim tawv nqaij, ua rau lub cev tsis ntev, mob ntev thiab ntev-ntev kev puas tsuaj, yog li UVA kuj hu ua UA Aging. Cov tshuaj tiv thaiv hnub yuav tsum raug xaiv los tiv thaiv UVA thiab UVB.

Daim duab 2: Schematic daim duab ntawm UV nkag mus rau hauv kev sib txawv

Kev paub txog hnub tiv thaiv hnub (SPF) yog siv los ntsuas tus UVB kuj muaj cov khoom tshuaj hnub tiv thaiv. Nws yog li ib tus naj npawb tom qab SPF, uas sawv cev rau cov tawv nqaij tsis muaj tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob tom qab siv tshuaj tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub. Cov tawv nqaij pib hlawv tom qab 20 feeb yam tsis muaj kev tiv thaiv tshav ntuj. Txawm li cas los xij, tom qab thov SPF15 tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub, lub sij hawm tiv thaiv ntawm daim tawv nqaij yog 20X15 = 300 feeb nyob rau hauv tib yam mob, daim tawv nqaij hlawv tom qab 300 feeb.

Tus nqi SPF txiav txim tias ntev npaum li cas cov tawv nqaij tuaj yeem tiv thaiv lub hnub, tsis yog qhov siv ntawm UV ci. Cov nram qab no tuaj yeem muab cov kev ua kom muaj hnub nyoog zoo tuaj yeem sai:

Formula: (SPFxx-1) SPFxx X100%

Piv txwv: (SPF15-1) SPF15 X100% = (15-1) / 159.33%

Raws li cov ntsiab lus saum toj no: SPF15 tuaj yeem tiv thaiv ntau dua 93% ntawm UV rays thiab SPF30 tsuas yog li 3% ntau dua nws, tsis yog ob zaug. Nyob rau tib lub sij hawm, cov khoom uas muaj SPF nqi zog yuav ua rau lub nra ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Kev tiv thaiv lub hnub tiv thaiv ntawm SPF15 tuaj yeem ua tau raws li kev xav tau ntawm kev tiv thaiv kev tiv thaiv thiab ua haujlwm tiv tshav ntuj rau hnub ua hauj lwm.

Tib lub sijhawm, PA (Kev tiv thaiv Qib ntawm UVA) raug tso tawm hauv 1996 los ntawm kev sib tw hauv Yijxig Cosmetic Kev Lag Luam los txhim kho UVA tshuaj thaiv hnub kom zoo. Nyob rau hauv xyoo tas los, nrog ntau thiab ntau manufacturers tuam txhab, cov neeg tau txais kev pab maj mam pib txais thiab pom zoo nrog qhov qauv tshiab hnub poob. Nws txawv ntawm SPF. Nws tsis yog tus naj npawb qab PA, tab sis ib qho "+" kos npe. Tshaj ntawd "+" tom qab, nws muaj zog tuaj yeem tiv thaiv UVA. Qhov khoom tiv thaiv tshav ntuj tshaj plaws hauv lub khw yog "PA +++".

Tus nqi PA yog nce raws li qhov pom ntawm PFA:

PFA = MPPD tus nqi uas siv rau qhov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub / MPPD yam tsis muaj cov tshuaj tshav ntuj PFA (Kev Tiv Thaiv Kev Tiv Thaiv ntawm UVA): Ultraviolet UVA Fact (MPD): yam tsawg ntu tshuaj

Thawj theem: PFA1-2 (tsis suav 2), sawv cev rau cov nyhav tsis muaj kev tiv thaiv UVA, tsis muaj PA;

Qhov thib ob theem: PFA2-4 (tsis suav 4), sawv cev cov nyhuv ntawm kev tiv thaiv UVA, sib npaug rau "PA +";

Qhov thib peb theem: PFA4-8 (tsis suav 8), sawv cev rau cov nyom ntawm kev tiv thaiv zoo UVA, sib npaug rau "PA ++";

Qib plaub: PFA> 8, sawv cev rau cov nyhav heev ntawm kev tiv thaiv UVA, sib npaug rau "PA +++"

Hauv qab no, xav tias peb cov tawv nqaij yog sunburned tom qab hnub raug rau 1 xuab moos uas tsis muaj hnub tiv thaiv, thiab PA ++ khoom siv. Nyob rau tib txoj kev tshwm sim, daim tawv nqaij yuav muab cov pob tawb tom qab 4-8 xuab moos. Phenomenon, nws yuav pom tau tias cov khoom moisturizing muaj PA ++ tshuaj thaiv hnub cov khoom xyaw yog txaus rau lub neej txhua hnub.

Tsis tas li ntawd, cov khoom xyaw tshuaj thaiv hnub yog feem ntau tso rau hauv chemical (xws li UV absorbers) thiab lub cev (nrog rau UV thaiv).

1. Tshuaj lom neeg tshav tshuaj (suav nrog UV absorbers)

Sunscreens feem ntau pom muaj nyob rau hauv cov tshuaj pleev tshuaj hnub ci. Nyob rau ntawm tam sim no, nws yog tsuas yog tsim ntawm ib tug sib xyaw synthesized ultraviolet absorber, uas absorbs ultraviolet rays. Lub ultraviolet absorber yog absorbed los ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab tom qab ntawd metabolized los ntawm tib neeg lub cev. Tshwj xeeb tshaj yog, cov tshuaj hauv cov tshuaj tiv thaiv hauv cov tshuaj tiv thaiv tuaj yeem nkag rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij keratin thiab tom qab nqus ntawm daim tawv nqaij, cuam tshuam nrog ultraviolet rays los hloov lawv mus ua lub zog tsis muaj zog. Vim hais tias nws yog tshuaj lom neeg ntawm daim tawv nqaij, nws muaj ib co stimulation rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Hauv particular, nws yog ib qho yooj yim uas yuav tsim teeb meem xws li ntxhib ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab txob qhov muag. Ntxiv mus, qhov ultraviolet absorber nws tus kheej yog ib yam khoom nta, uas yuav ua rau mob voos rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab ua kom muaj kev sib tov tshuaj.

2. Cov khoom xyaw tshuaj siv nruab hnub (nrog rau UV shielding agent)

Nws feem ntau nyob rau saum npoo ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab tsis absorbed lossis metabolized los ntawm lub cev. Tshwj xeeb, nws yog hais txog kev siv cov khoom hauv sunscreens los thaiv, ua kom pom los yog tawg tawm ultraviolet lub teeb, uas ua rau txo cov nqi ntawm ultraviolet lub teeb ncav lub tawv nqaij. Vim tias nws tsis haum, nws yog me ntsis rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Lub shortcoming ntawm tus neeg saib xyuas ultraviolet shielding yog tias lub transparency yog pluag, thiab cov khoom tiav yog coated ntawm daim tawv nqaij zoo li ib txheej ntawm hoarfrost. Tsis tas li ntawd, lawv cov kev siv tsis raug rau ib qho kev txwv hauv lub teb chaws thiab siv tau los ua cov khoom nrog SPF qhov tseem ceeb.